At Jild, our mission is to craft purposeful leather goods that move with you, work for you, and empower your journey.
To design and craft premium leather goods that honor movement, ambition, and authenticity.
Through ergonomically conscious shoes, smartly engineered bags, and timeless essentials,
we empower individuals to walk stronger, carry smarter, and live boldly — every single day.
We are here to redefine Egyptian craftsmanship:
Not just in how it looks.
But in how it feels, functions, and fuels your journey.
, So we wanted to share with you the keys to identifying top-quality goods.
GRADE
Check your leather wallet and tell us
Most raw leather bears a stamp on its underside to identify its grade in one of four categories: full-grain, top-grain, split-grain and genuine. You may be surprised to hear that "genuine" is not a mark of quality because it’s a catch-all term to cover anything that can be called leather but is not of the best quality. Genuine leather is made by splitting a piece of full-grain leather, sanding away any imperfections in the hide and perhaps even stamping a fake grain on it. The highest – and strongest - grade is full-grain, and means the raw material is exceptional, so it’s worth inspecting the product further.
ORIGIN
MY leather shoe Has history
The best rawhide leather tends to be Egypt https://farrouhleathers.com/ (which is why we select it exclusively). We source our finished leather from Gold rated tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG), an international organization that works to ensure sustainable environmental practices in the leather industry. We are proud to locally source our raw materials.
SMELL
Do you smell that
the unmistakable leather aroma we all know and love isn’t “natural” to a leather hide, but rather comes from a combination of perfumes, chemicals, oils, and waxes leather tanneries use to give leather its unique smell.
you can’t mistake the smell of real high quality leather. The lower grades will have a milder aroma, while the best grades have a rich, sweet smell. And yes, often vegetable-tanned leather has a sweeter smell than chrome-tanned. The fake stuff will smell of plastic or chemicals … or nothing at all. Freshly handcrafted leather goods may have a mild odor from glue used in the process of handcrafting, but this will typically dissipate soon after the product is finished.
STRUCTURE
Your leather wallet is rough ?
Examine the grain closely. If you come across tiny imperfections, don’t mistake these for a lack of quality because they may be the result of veins, stretch marks, small insect bites, etc – i.e. “life” - indicating the authenticity of the full-grain leather hide. In fact, some leather aficionados prefer and seek out leather scars as a sign of an authentic full-grain hide. Quality leather feels warm and soft and will have a very full grain - if it is too regular or smooth to the touch, chances are it is imitation or, at best, a lower grade of split-grain leather.
LOOK
Your leather shoe getting darker ?
The best-quality full-grain leather develops a patina over time, which is a dark, soft sheen resulting from oxidization, burnishing via being rubbed or touched by hand, and natural aging. Imitations and even the lowest grades of leather may either fade or retain an unnaturally consistent color.
STITCHING
Uh my stitches on my leather bag are not identical
Why Stitching Is the Backbone of Quality Leather Goods
In the world of leather craftsmanship, stitching is one of the most critical indicators of quality and longevity. No matter how premium the leather is, if the stitching fails, the entire product fails. It’s not just about aesthetics—stitching holds the structure together, enduring years of wear and stress.
There are two primary methods of stitching in leatherwork: machine stitching and hand stitching, and while they may appear similar to the untrained eye, the difference in durability is significant.
Machine Stitching
Machine stitching, commonly used in mass production, involves two threads: a top thread and a bottom bobbin thread that interlock to create a seam. This method is efficient and fast, but it has one major downside: if a single thread breaks, the entire seam can unravel quickly. You might see this on a cheaper leather bag where the seam comes apart in a straight tear.
Hand Stitching
On the other hand, hand stitching—specifically the saddle stitch—uses a single thread and two needles, with each stitch passing through the leather twice. This means if one stitch breaks, the others stay intact, preserving the integrity of the item. This technique is more time-consuming but offers unmatched strength and durability, which is why it’s often favored in artisan-quality leather goods.
Thread Quality Matters
Equally important is the type of thread used. Lower-quality goods often use cotton thread, which can weaken, stretch, or rot over time, especially when exposed to moisture or UV rays. Poor stitching may also appear with inconsistent spacing, wandering thread lines, or messy underside stitching—all signs of rushed or careless work.
At Jild, we take no shortcuts. We use marine-grade, German-spun polyester thread, which has been rigorously tested for strength, UV resistance, abrasion, and weather durability. This is the same type of thread used in sail-making and heavy-duty outdoor gear—applications where failure is simply not an option.
EDGES
Alittle rough on the edges works for your partner not your leather goods
\ When assessing the quality of a leather product, one of the most overlooked—but most telling—details is the edge finish. Smooth, well-finished edges are a hallmark of premium craftsmanship and reveal how much care has gone into making the piece.
In traditional Egyptian leather workshops, especially those in historic areas like Khan El-Khalili and Old Cairo, artisans have passed down the skill of edge finishing through generations. Using time-honored techniques, craftsmen carefully burnish the edges by hand—rubbing them with tools made of wood, bone, or horsehair to create a smooth, slightly polished surface. This not only improves aesthetics but also strengthens the edge against wear, water, and fraying.
Edges may also be dyed or painted, depending on the product’s design. In high-quality Egyptian leather goods, the edge color is carefully matched to the body of the leather, ensuring a clean and seamless look.
However, it’s important to watch for signs of lower-grade finishes. If you see a bluish or grayish tint on the edges, it’s likely from a chrome-tanned leather known as “wet blue”—a sign that the leather wasn’t fully dyed at the tannery. In contrast, many artisanal Egyptian tanneries in El-Marg or Dar El-Salaam still use vegetable tanning, a more traditional and eco-friendly method that results in deeper, richer color and a “clean” edge with no bluish tones.
Sometimes manufacturers use edge paint to cover imperfections, which may crack or peel over time. This is often seen in mass-produced goods that imitate high-end craftsmanship. A simple way to check quality is to run your thumbnail gently along the edges. Well-crafted Egyptian leather goods will feel smooth, dense, and even, with no rough patches or tacky residue.
In Egypt, leathercraft is more than a trade—it’s an art rooted in centuries of heritage. From Cairo’s oldest souks to modern studios blending tradition with innovation, the edge of a leather product tells a story of skill, authenticity, and pride. When those edges are done right, you’re holding more than just a bag or wallet—you’re holding a piece of living craft.
WATER RESISTANCE
Rainy? My leather bag can take it
Not every retailer may be happy to let you try this, but applying a tiny drop of water to the surface will help to verify the quality. As a natural material, the pores in leather will absorb liquids; if it is imitation or poor quality, it is much more likely they will simply run off.
SCRATCHING
High quality, full-grain leather is the strongest grade available and is susceptible to scratching. It may be sometimes protected with a surface coating to resist stains, minor scratches and other damage; most of our leathers do not have a coating. Rather, you may remove / blend / minimize most scratches by rubbing the scratch with your finger (the combination of your body’s oil and heat will do the trick) or even add a tiny bit of conditioner to help blend the scratch. To be safe, test first in an inconspicuous section to see if the leather conditioner darkens too much to your liking.
DESCRIPTION AND LABELS
Remember those grades and that misleading one: "genuine". A manufacturer is entitled to call a product genuine leather as long as it’s made from some kind of leather, however poor it may be. They can also describe something as being "made with full-grain leather", which can be true if full-grain makes only the smallest part of the product. Another cheat is to use full-grain leather, which, in order to save money, has not been put through the proper finishing process. Those blue edges are a telltale sign of this shortcut and always delivers a substandard product.
Don’t forget to look for the Country of Origin (CoO) label. Typically known as the “Made in” label, it should be pretty easily found either stitched or stamped on or inside the product. If you can’t find it to save your life (or it was on a small slip of paper that can be thrown away post-purchase or “lost”), then the brand most likely doesn’t want you to know or – even worse – ashamed of it. We handcraft 100% of our leather goods in our own shop located in old Leon, Mexico (founded in 1576) the world-renowned leather capital of the world.
It may be a minefield, but if you follow these tips, you’ll never run the risk of ending up with inferior leather goods. Make it easy on yourself. Always purchase from a brand with a lifetime promise, that always stands behind it without question with their Mythical Customer CareTM.
ADDITIONAL READING
How to take care of leather products
Handmade vs hand crafted